Joel Zerr - Breaking The Plateau Training Inquiry

Hey Timy!

My name is Joel Zerr. You may remember me from the Mad Rock team back when you used to be the team captain. You actually came to my home gym in Reno, NV and I got in a quick session with you. I may have climbed with you in Hueco as well.

Anyway, I was wondering if you’d be able to offer some training advice? I feel that I have been performing at the same level for longer than I’d like. I mainly focus on bouldering but definitely get psyched to sport climb as well. I have climbed some harder things over the last five years but nothing harder than V12 bouldering and 5.14a sport. I still have a great time each and every day I get out climbing, but I know I am capable of performing at a much higher level. Basically I have many projects I want to do, and I’m not getting any younger!

I feel that I have a lot of experience with training, but a lot of it has been very experimental. I never really had a good coach when I started climbing. The most successful results I’ve seen was when I was training on the rings and running twice per week plus gym climbing and or bouldering outside twice per week. I have tried other methods of training such as interval training with weights. I think overall everything I have tried has definitely helped but I’m at a point where I feel I need something more focused. Is there anything you could share with me? I’m really just looking for new way to train that will help me to break though a seemingly endless barrier.

Any advice would be much appreciated!

Thanks,

Joel Zerr
_________________________________
RESPONSE:

Of course I remember you Joel. I commend you on achieving such a high level in both bouldering and route climbing – something that is very rare. Most climbers have a significant discrepancy between their bouldering level and their sport climbing level, but you seem very balanced.

I would definitely return to what you feel has worked in the past as far as following a similar rhythm and general approach for your base moving forward. I would then expand on your training approach by integrating more integrated exercises into your sport-specific strength and conditioning training as well as targeting weaknesses (hand positions and movement types).

At your stage of development and with your current ability it is going to be crucial that you adhere to the following basic training parameters if you want to improve. Without programming the specifics of your training program, here are some ideas upon which you may wish to build your new training methodology:

Follow a more disciplined weekly and monthly training schedule.

Document your training.

Improve the quality of your nutrition.

Improve the quality of your sleep.

Refine the quality and specification of cross-training activities.

Adopt rehab-oriented exercises that address old injuries and injury prevention.

Introduce multiple sessions and contrasted types of workouts in a given day.

Emphasize the execution of more well programmed and organized training sessions.

Higher intensity combined with higher technical quality of execution will yield higher performance.

Incrementally increase and track your training volume.

Focus on your consistent performance level rather than your absolute limit.

Seek to qualify rather than only quantifying your performances.

Vary the training emphasis to avoid over-training and plateaus.

Re-asses your goals, reorganize the proposed chronology in which you feel you would most likely be able to get completion.

Enlist the right training partners who can help motivate you and push you in your deficient areas.

Continue to develop new climbing areas since this has proven to be a source of inspiration to you in the past.

I will be sure to continually add to this list as I remember more training wisdom from my coaches and trainers.

BTW: we should all follow such guidelines since none of us are getting any younger!

TF

"Enemy-D" Recons Antarctica

Expedition leader, Dr. Dave “Enemy-D” Van Horn (PhD), has officially become the first known boulderer in the world to operate a Hilti hammer drill on the most coveted and least accessible boulder field on the continent of Antarctica. The incident occurred at an undisclosed location (for security purposes) in late November 2011 during a rock reconnaissance mission coined, “Operation Enduring Friction”, which fulfills the imperatives set forth by the G-20’s No Continent Left Behind Global Initiative Manifesto. The research project is jointly funded from grants provided by the National Science Foundation and the Foundation of Antarctic Research and the US-DOD.

The purpose of the 8 week expedition is to survey unmapped sites, inventory route potential and collect rock core samples from prospective boulder fields to determine the viability of future rock climbing area exploration on the planet’s 7th continent. It is believed that if enough suitable rock conducive to offering world class gymnastic test-pieces in ideal sending conditions is located on the Earth’s coldest and most vastly unexplored region, that the sport of bouldering will continue to prosper despite recent global warming trends which have proven to increasingly pose complications to the successful completion of difficult climbs worldwide. Dr. Van Horn has openly stated his contention that “Antarctica truly represents the final frontier of bouldering first ascents on this planet”.

The final report will be published in Spring 2012 after lab analysis of all core samples has been conducted and photo documentation and site maps have been reviewed by the technical advisory board headed by project manager and spokesperson, Timy Fairfield. The study was commissioned by co-sponsor, Futurist Climbing Consultants, Inc.

Antihydral Skin Drying Question

Timy,

Recently I have been hearing about this antihydral ointment that some climbers use on their fingertips to dry them out and create good, strong calluses. Have you used this stuff before? I am sure this is not a new thing in the climbing world but it seems that a lot of good climbers out there swear by this stuff and it is a great “trade secret” . just wanted your opinion if this works or if it will just fuck up my fingers. Thanks man! Hope you all are doing well!

Dan Isaac
Albuquerque, NM
__________________________
RESPONSE:

Dan,

I love how you are always seeking the performance enhancing edge. Such was the way of the Soviet sports programs of the cold war. Antihydral creams can be helpful short term. Long term they can contribute to compromising the integrity of the skin. A certain amount of moisture is necessary for the skin to remain supple so that it does not split, peel or slide off of holds. It is also necessary to recover from the superficial tissue damage of the abrasion, pitting, tearing, etc encountered through rock climbing. Too much callus causes cracking.

Many chalks profess to actually dry the skin in addition to neutralizing moisture. This is the problem that many people experience with certain types of commercially produced powdered chalks that are “proprietary blends” fortified with an antihydral agent. Although these chalks can be highly effective, they can also serve to compromise your skin depending upon the natural Ph level of your body (determined by genetic factors, diet and hydration). When I have over utilized such substances on a regular basis it has lead to peeling, scaling and especially splitting in between the creases of my pads which has lead to a long series of frustrating efforts to restore the structural integrity of my skin. This is especially pervasive in a high elevation, dry climate encountered in the Western US. I had far fewer skin related issues when I was living in Europe. Our region is particularly hard on the skin.

The real issue is the toughness of the skin and the degree to which you sweat. Personally, I do not naturally have thick skin nor do I inherently sweat very heavily unless my skin is worn thin from a high volume of climbing or as a result of climbing on very abrasive surfaces. My strategy is to maintain tough, but thin and supple skin. This helps prevent excess sweating which can also be a function of the sweat glands being closer to the surface due to worn down layers of superficial dermis.

Note: Dehydration of the dermis resulting from poor habits such as drinking excessive alcohol, smoking and laziness actually helps most climbers sweat less. However, this can lead to other health, performance and sports injury complications – especially soft tissue damage.

My advice would be to first address the type of chalk that yields the best result for the least damage. There are some types of chalk additives and drying compounds for the skin that are not antihydral. These substances dry on a superficial level but do not compromise the ability for your skin to recover. I find that hemp oil offers the right balance for my skin – yielding toughness and suppleness to avoid splitting. Using a hand cream at night helps restore tissue hydration so the depleted tissue can repair itself. Danny Andrada claims that fresh raw garlic smeared directly onto the skin before going to bed helps speed skin recovery. He definitely pushed this technique on me while we were training and traveling to comps together. I don’t know how well it works, but certainly smells good and helps the immune system – not to speak of the sex drive!

You could also test an antihydral cream in very limited dosage with a few days between using the product. The prudent way of testing an antihydral cream would be to use it on a non-climbing day so that if you are hyper sensitive to the compound you avoid obliterating your skin in a single day of climbing. I would also be inclined to cycle the use of such products, only utilizing them when absolutely necessary, not every time you climb.

TF

Daily Caloric Intake Question

Tim,

This is just a general question, but at my age (42) and working out, how many calories should I consume in a day? In a regular workout I burn about 730-950 calories.

Thank you!

Thomas Nanez
(Albuquerque, NM)

_________________________________
RESPONSE:

Thomas,

Good to hear from you, and great to hear that you are burning so many calories per workout! The best way to know how many calories to intake daily is to undergo a bio impedance test which will give you a myriad of information concerning your BMI (Body Mass Index and your BMR (basal metabolic rate) – which is different for everyone. Then, you can determine how many calories you need to ingest for basic bodily function vs. weight loss in relation to the caloric demand of your workouts.

You can get a bio-impedence test from Karen Grimaldi at Full Circle Fitness (505-888-9616). You could also look into the Body Bugg which is an incredibly powerful tool. Visit: Body Bug I have used this product with an elite competition climber that I trained (because she had a history of an eating disorder and did not eat enough throughout the day). It is incredibly useful for people who do not eat enough or eat too much. But it also helps track the quality and type of fuel ingested which is even more important, as you know, to how we feel and perform.

I personally do not track calories. I focus on food quality and I just train hard and eat a lot. I should probably track my calories to ensure that I am eating enough in actuality.

TF

The "No-Man's" Land HR Zone

Hi Timy,

I have a quick question regarding the cardiac zones. Where does the no-man’s land of inefficient heart rate fall in terms of % maximum heart rate?

Looking forward to tomorrow’s team training!

Thanks,

Patrick Hudson
Gameroom Climbing Team Member
Albuquerque, NM
_____________________________
RESPONSE:

Patrick,

Great question. The “no man’s land zone” varies and is dependent up on the physiology of each person which is why VO2 max testing is the most effective way to understand individual limits. It is occurs in the gradual transition between the aerobic and the anaerobic energy systems. Generally, it is a 7-9 beat range. For me it occurs between 164-171 bpm which corresponds with 82-85% of my maximum heart rate (MaxHR = 200).

I would really like to organize a day when we can have the entire climbing team VO2 max tested. However, this can cost $300/person.

Hopefully this helps.

TF

The 'Tri-Set' Training Method Debunked

Hi Timy!

I am a climber from Greece and my name is Antonios.

I am really intrested in training for climbing, more specific bouldering,
and as I am a self-coached climber I am trying to develop
a training schedule so as to manage to improve.
I read recently an article about a training program/method
in the last issue of deadpoint magazine (#15).
The article is written from an advanced climber,
named Brian Antheunisse, and is called ‘Tri-set’.
The reason that I send you this mail is because
in the introduction of the article,
Brian is mentioning you as the constructor of this workout.
So, I suppose you are the most appropriate to answer some questions
I have.

In the article Brian refers that after you choose the appropriate
exercises for your tri-set, then begin to execute each one
for 5-10 minutes without stopping, only with a short rest between them
until you have completed your first set.
Rest for 10 minutes and then continue for your next tri-set until you end up
with 4-6 tri-sets with alternate but similar exercises.
This is what I understood about but then thought, is it possible
to do muscle-ups, continuously for 10 minutes without stopping(!)?
Have I understood right or I miss something?

I would be gratefull if you could give me some
informations about this workout and be more specific
about the execution of the exercises.

I am looking forward to hearing from you.

Thanks a lot for your time.

Best regards,
Antonios (Greece)
__________________________________
RESPONSE:

Antonios,

Thank you very much for your inquiry – you ask a great question. After locating a copy of DPM and reading the article to which you refer, I can say that it seems as if there has been a serious misunderstanding (unless your level of proficiency in the English language has created confusion, which is highly doubtful based on the e-mail that you wrote me)

First of all, I do not remember having ever trained with or directly sharing my training methodology information with the author, Brian Antheunisse. Perhaps he has attended one of my training workshops, national coaches accreditation symposiums or youth performance training camps. But I honestly do not recall interacting with him in this context. If my ideas have been misinterpreted I do not fault Brian for intentionally misrepresenting this training information as it could have been an innocent mistake based on third hand (mis)-information or well-intended rumors that have been passed along through many layers of communication and ultimately exaggerated. I was never contacted or referenced during the writing of this article.

To answer your question: No, I do not propose performing such high intensity exercises for such long durations without rest. This is absolutely crazy and counterproductive for an athlete who endeavors to build meaningful strength that will directly transfer to athletic performance. Further, such an approach could result in injury, energy depletion and contribute to the overall degradation of proper biomechanics which would render the exercises useless in the context of technical transfer to quality climbing movement.

I generally perform a series of 5 different non-conflicting exercises during each 6’ period (without a 6’ rest period between supersets). The type of “sport-specific strength super-set” that I advocate is not to be confused with a conventional “body-building” super-set which will work the same muscle group to exhaustion with a series of different types of exercises that target the same family of ranges of motion. Instead we must work different ranges of motions in rapid succession allowing the body to recover from the previous set so that a high quality and high intensity can be executed during the next set.

Sometimes, if I am fatigued from climbing, trying to build fitness after a period without strength training or introducing more complex higher intensity exercises into my workout routine I will choose to take a 5’ rest period between each 5-6’ super-set. I advocate a total work period of 5-10 minutes for what is referred to as a sport-specific super set consisting of exercises which are varied in and contrasted from one another in the following areas:

Agonist v. antagonist
Upper v. lower body
Bi-lateral v. unilateral
Sport specific v. general
Specific v. stabilizing
Prone v. supine
frontal v. sagital planes

Example of a workload for a 6’ sport-specific super-set for rock climbing:

1arm Fingerboard hang on crimp 6-10 seconds (or 25 second 2-arm hang)
3-6 muscle-ups
10 low-ring flys
10 front scales with physio ball (for postural correction/flexibility)
10 suspended v-ups (from bar)
10 1-legged side lunges (1-foot in suspension training device)
12 lateral raises (balanced on 1-foot on rocker board)

I repeat this superset format but with different exercises in each category substituted for each range of motion 3-6 times throughout the rest of the workout (ie 1-arm rows replace muscle-ups and low ring push-ups may replace low ring flys in the following set). I rarely perform the same exact exercise twice in a workout. But I will work the same muscle groups through similar ranges of motion with different types of exercises.

FYI: I did not “invent” this method of strength training. I adopted and adapted the method of super-set formatting from other sports such as gymnastics, wrestling, fighting/martial arts and other individual athletics field events.

I appreciate you keeping me informed. I hope that nobody gets over trained or injured attempting what was proposed in the DPM article on Tri-Set training. Good luck with your training and thank you for your input.

TF

Route Setting Power Tools

Timy,

What type of impact driver should I purchase for route setting the commercial climbing facility that I manage?

Dan Isaac
Kirtland Air Force Base
Albuquerque, NM
_______________________________
RESPONSE:

Dan,

Here is some info on what I would recommend for route setting impact drivers. We have 3 of these tools. The new lithium ion batteries last so long and charge so fast that you can’t kill them faster than they can re-charge!

Hitachi 12V (this is the one that you are currently borrowing – I used this to set the Asian X-Games multiple times) Visit: Tyler Tool.
Makita 14.4v Impact Driver (we also own this one – Brandi’s favorite) Visit: Tyler Tool.

Notes: For route setting purposes absolutely do not buy an impact driver without specs within the following parameters:

12v – 14.4v (too weak and it won’t loosen or tighten the holds enough, too strong and you will break holds)
2.0-3.0 amp batteries (lower than 2.0 amps and the batteries won’t hold their charge long enough)
Lithium Ion batteries are more expensive, but preferable (the charges in these batteries last forever)

Accessories – You will need the following accessories for each impact driver that you purchase:

Purchase from Lowe’s or local hardware store
Single pouch tool belt with hammer ring for suspending tool and retaining bolts/hardware while stripping routes. Purchase synthetic as it is lighter and cheaper than leather.
Magnetic Sleeve Screw Driver Attachment (for set screws and jibs)

1/4” Hex to 3/8” square drive adaptor – one end attaches into the quick release on the impact driver and the other end takes a 3/8” socket. (Order extra in case a you loose them)
Visit: Tyler Tools

You will need 3/8” socket drives with hex bit/Allen rod mounted into the socket. Although there is a tension screw in the side of the socket housing to retain the allen rod I recommend reinforcing the connection with epoxy or it will vibrate apart in no time. I prefer ordering one that is longer and hack sawing down to the desired length due to the fact that many holds have recessed bolt holes that make the bolt head too deep to reach with a short allen stock on the drive. I actually have some with short stock and some with longer stock depending on the type of hold.

3/8” Drive -5/16” Hex Bit
3/8” Drive – 7/32” Hex Bit

There are varoius sellers who carry different lengths and diameters: Visit: “Google Products”:http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=3/8”+Drive+-5/16”+Hex+Bit&oe=UTF-8&cid=5141409176046487639&sa=title#p

I hope that this info helps you. Let me know which impact driver you are interested in purchasing before you make your final selection. It will be the best $300 investment your facility can make for route setting.

TF

Kate Moss Motto

“Nothing tastes as good as skinny feels”

- Kate Moss, model, when asked if she had a personal motto.

Skins Clothing Performance Question

Hey Timy,

I have a quick question about a product that you may have experience with…..“Skins”…

Route Bolting Technical Advice From Joe Crotty

My good friend and climbing partner from back in my CSU college days in Fort Collins, CO, Joe Crotty, recently called me with some questions about bolting new routes.

Adult Competition Participation Advice

Hi Timy!

Hope all is bueno with you! I have a little thing going on down here with comps, and was hoping perhaps you could drop some advice on my head.

NEW! EXF Rings - Power Athletes, LLC

Power Athletes, LLC has improved the ultimate gymnastics training rings. EXF Rings, the Cadillac of training rings, incorporate years of research and development. With the new design, you can double the length of the straps for a full 18 foot range. And you can set them up in 5 seconds! We had to create an entirely new mounting system to do this. Even the ring itself has been dramatically improved with a new multi-textured surface. These are all new, exclusive features of the EXF Rings.

5-Second EXF Set-Up Video: Power Athletes Ring Designer Tyler Hass

Full-Length EXF Set-Up Video: Power Athletes Sponsored Timy Fairfield

Visit: Ringtraining.com

The 'Monkey King'

The way that he climbs is truly beautiful! He inspires me to go buildering.

The Monkey King on Reuters

Monkey King on Indian TV

The American Diet - Designed for Disease

Dietary Components

Source: USDA Agriculture Fact Book 98: Chapter 1A

For More Information Visit: wholefoodsmarket.com

Shout Out from Bakersfield, CA

loved seeing you in the new issue of climbing!!
hope your having a great year!
we miss you in bakersfield
Contessa

System Training Wall Angle

Q: I have a question that I was hoping you could help me with: what degree overhang is best for a systems wall at the Hangar 18 Riverside gym? I was thinking 30degrees overhung….its in a commercial gym, not for my own personal use, so i thought any steeper might be a bit much….what do you think?

Ringtraining.com Elite Gymnastics Rings Gain World Art Recognition!

Gymnastic rings used for a performance by the dancer William Forsyth at Venice Biennale Art Exhibition

Visit The New York Times

To Purchase The Elite Rings Visit: Ringtraining.com

Ringtraining.com Featured Product Warm-Up & Preparation DVD Featuring Jordan Jovtchev

I recently watched this DVD and it reminded me of how many creative ways there are to get a thorough warm-up, how reliable the time-tested daily gymnastics sequence is and how much my flexibility could improve.

Adult Climbing Boot Camp Workout Format

I recently got an interesting request to format an adult Boot Camp style training session that includes climbing from Clint Harvey who attended my adult climbing clinic at Climb Iowa in April.

TF Dietary Log

People often ask me about my diet because they are interested in how someone who has been training hard for 20 years and performing at a high level at my age must be eating. To a large extent I eat what I like – although I have conditioned my tastes away from processed foods. I could improve my diet and I have vices like everyone else. But it’s generally pretty clean for my level of activity and seems to give me energy. So here’s an average day of what I eat when I’m not traveling, at home and training.

Routesetting Workshop Training Session Feedback

Timy,

Thanks for taking the time to work with us in your route setting and one on one coaching at Climb Iowa. I did the one on one session with you and found it very helpful. During that session you set a couple of projects for me to work one including a sit start to a problem you set during the route setting workshop. Yesterday I did all the moves on the problem for the first time and almost linked the entire problem. I was pretty psyched as the start had me completely stumped for a couple of weeks.

Cheers,
Alan Grau
Des Moines, IA

Active Recovery Question

Training question: I got wrecked from strength training on
Monday…I’m really sore…should i wait until I feel
better to strength train again…I know soreness is
partially due to micro muscle tears…should I let these
heal before going for a second dose?

Dave VanHorn
Albuquerque, NM

TF Climb Iowa Youth Performance Training Camp

Next pic Back Row: Matthew Creason, Thomas Murphy, Dylan Huey Head Coach), Ryan Coulson, Weston Engelstad, Hailey Bridgewater, Aaron Stevens, Timy Fairfield
Front Row: Michael Penniman, Shakira Stowers, Jacob Steil, Mable Parker, Lauren Kuper

TF Climb Iowa Adult Climbing Clinic

Back Row: Zach Forbes, Jeremy Sievers, Clint (Arsenal FC) Harvey, George Lane, Mike House, Patrick Blair, Timy (Chelsea FC) Fairfield, Aaron Stevens
Front Row: Alex Venter, Connie Middleton, Peggy Spieker, Allison Van Roeckel, Marisa Williams, Alex Hansen

Finger Injury Advice

Matthew,

Read the following articles when you have a chance. I have undergone this type of revolutionary therapy and it is very effective for the issue that you are having with your finger.

New York Times

My Naturopathic Doctor’s name is Harry Adelson. He is based in SLC, UT and very reputable nationwide and worldwide in the administering of these types of treatments. His website is a wealth of knowledge.

Here is a list of hyperlinks/sources for the gold/silver acupressure rings that I use (the one that you saw me using):

Acupuncture Needle Ring

I hope that this helps you find a cure for your nagging finger injury. It was nice meeting you while I was in Iowa last week. I think you’ll have fun working in the gym industry – especially because you have such a luxury facility. Let me know if you have any other questions.

TF

Sleep Article

Visit Wired Magazine

Mixed Martial Arts Training Question

So, I have a training question for you. I am looking for some running info…mostly concerning interval training. I have begun training in mma and I desperately have to train in the conditioning aspect. I am in the weight gym and studio a lot but I need to get some cardio/conditioning going on outside of the gym. Let me know what you think.

-Jordan Wright BC CAN

Sports Injury Therapy Article

I have been using both Meso and Prolo Therapy to help recover from soft tissue injuries since I first discovered the technology when I moved to France to train in ’95. Since then, we have seen the practice evolve to include the injection of one’s own white blood cells into damaged tissue. I have undergone this procedure on numerous occasions over the past 3 years and find it to be extraordinarily effective at speeding up injury recovery time. I always find it ironic that DOM, Naturopaths and Physios (European sports therapists) have been using these techniques on athletes for years while receiving criticism from the American medical establishment only to discover that professional sports teams here now swear by the technology. My rule regarding alternative therapies receiving criticism by the FDA or AMA is to research them in depth if you know that they are being heavily implemented in other parts of the world by cycling or other individualized professional sports teams. By the time the NBA or NFL catches on it’s already old hat on the Tour de France!

Visit: New York Times

Training Weaknesses

Q: Hey Timy, hope all is well. I was wondering something about my training and was hoping you might have some good advice.

What is the best way to isolate and train your weaknesses in climbing? It seems like an easy question but as the season is kicking in again around here I am finding certain movement harder than others duh… but can never really predict what those might be. Even though the movement is always different I think they may all be linked to the same root cause which I cannot quite identify. I want to learn how to be more cognisant of this and learn more from myself so I can have more productive system training etc…

Guess we can all agree that training your weaknesses are good but it can get fuzzy identifying what those weaknesses are and how to train for them. Does this make sense? So I am wondering if you have some sort of system inside your head that helps you to be more aware and to remember (after the day of climbing is over) what it was that held you back from doing a problem.

Regards,

Chris Carpenter (Albuquerque, NM)

PRG Routesetting Workshop - Phoenix, AZ

Timy,

Thanks again for coming to the Phoenix Rock Gym and enlightening my crew. We already have new sets of rings and the guys are hard at working out. Thanks for doing that second segment on training on friday. It was nice to see how much training you do to accomplish the 5.14 ratings. Not just tick off one climb and say you are that strong. It was great to have you as a guest but feel welcome any time you want to visit.

Rock on!

Marty Karabin
Head Route Setter Phoenix Rock Gym
AZ Cliff Hanger