System Training Wall Angle

Q: I have a question that I was hoping you could help me with: what degree overhang is best for a systems wall at the Hangar 18 Riverside gym? I was thinking 30degrees overhung….its in a commercial gym, not for my own personal use, so i thought any steeper might be a bit much….what do you think?

I have really been enjoying your website, in particular the training blog…keep it coming mate!

Cheers,

Joe Morgan
Head Route Setter/Coach
Hangar 18 Gym – Riverside ,CA)
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Where I walk, Flowers grow -Rainbow Feathered Serpent
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R: I really like an 8-12’ wide x 12-16’ high adjustable system wall constructed from steel and plywood that utilizes a cable winch hand crank w/ pulleys. The ideal system angle is 25-40 degrees overhanging. If you have a fixed wall I like 30-35 degrees (I built my system wall at 35 degrees fixed angle, 8’ wide x 20’ high). The whole concept of coordinating a lower body technique linked through the core while locking off (chest in and above the hand) driving down hard on various hand positions to build integrated strength seems to work best at 30-35 degrees. Otherwise, you roll from the shoulder to avoid locking off and pressing down on the holds. I prefer locking down with the body in closer to the wall and over the feet on less in-cut holds to build technical strength to hanging out away from the wall on better holds. Most system walls that I encounter in gyms are too steep. You’re right in your assessment of the angle being most effective at approx 30 degrees. I’m glad that you like my training blog. Keep bringing good questions.

TF